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Another Day in the Life

Published by jigsaw on November 30, 2009 in Uncategorized. 0 Comments

The wine business is a crazy little world. I get people asking about it all the time and to be honest, other than the fact that we work in an insane business selling alcohol to people across the country and usually drinking too much ourselves, it is just like your job. Same stresses, same hilarity and at the end of the day if you don’t have good product then you’re not going to sell very much.

Our goal is to keep it simple and give people what they want. If you ever feel like leaving suggestions on what we do please don’t hesitate to post them here.

The Belmont Butchery

Published by jigsaw on July 24, 2009 in Uncategorized. 0 Comments

I love traveling and I love running across people who really “get it” when it comes to food, eating and drinking.

Last week I was introduced to the owner of the Belmont Butchery, Tanya Cauthen with her wine buyer Brad Hemp, as well as the saucisson master, Chris Mattera. This is a three year old butchery in Richmond, VA and if you are staying, live there or just passing through you must stop in and check out the joint, grab some meats and a bottle of wine.  Their hospitality is unrivaled, the sausage and bacon is divine and they have a secret weapon behind the shop…an urban garden.

For city dwellers that think all farming is done out in the pastures far away from the bright lights think again.  An urban farming renaissance is sweeping quietly through America, and the more I ask, the more I see this happening in all four corners of our beautiful country.  I’m an optimist at heart and it fills me with great pleasure and pride to see Americans taking hold of backyards, abandoned lots, next door neighbors ratty tat overgrown lawns and converting these into sustainable urban gardens that are yielding delicious, high quality, sometimes organic produce year round.

This is exactly what Tanya and her boyfriend Henry Reidy did… (btw, who owns a fantastic bottle shop called Strawberry Street Vineyard)… they took over an abandoned lot behind the Butchery and are growing produce such as corn to herbs to heirloom tomatoes.  It was the most delicious sandwich I’d eaten all week as we tasted wines in the store.  Just smoked sausage, still warm and oozing deliciousness, wrapped in hand ripped baguette with a spread of brown seeded mustard, finished with backyard heirloom tomatoes, fresh buffalo mozzarella and shredded basil.  I say put a fork in me, I’m done!

Congratulations Tanya on creating a truly memorable and unique butchery.  Visit their site: http://belmontbutchery.com/ and stop in next time you’re in Richmond.

Spring Time Wine

Published by jigsaw on May 5, 2009 in Uncategorized and Wine. 0 Comments

Spanish wines are in vogue for a very good reason.  They are delicious, have amazing pedigree and often times blow the roof off with quality at entry level prices.  I think that I’ve found a great spring time white.  Don Sancho Londono, Cortijo Blanco (100% pure delicious viura), from Rioja.  This little beauty is like the best Loire Valley sauvignon blanc that is crisp and terroir driven masterfully infused with subtle viognier aromatics without being cloying or heavy.  Let me tell you a little bit about Viura as a grape variety.

Viura is sometimes called Macabeo in other non Riojan growing areas in Spain and since the 1950’s has been a balanced and beautiful blending grape offering structure and acidity to many white wines.  Don Sancho Londono has approximately 900 acres of vines around the town of Hormilla and has the ability to grow vibrant and fresh Viura that is atypical of the classic, old school Riojan whites of the past that were oxidized and caramel colored.

I love drinking wines that match the weather and hopefully in your neck of the woods the sun has popped out and the flowers are blooming and you can sit on the porch and enjoy a delicious chilled bottle of your favorite white wine.

Chez Fon Fon - Birmingham- Alabama

Published by jigsaw on March 5, 2009 in Uncategorized. 1 Comment

So I’m traveling and working in Alabama and am told that I must go to this restaurant, Chez Fon Fon.  What the heck does Fon Fon mean?  Well, nothing.  It’s a made up name that chef owner Frank Stitt apparently liked.  But let me tell you.  I went there twice and not only was the decor classique French bistro, the service fantastic, but the food, the food, the food.

I will freely admit that I am thoroughly enamoured with classique European cuisine.  Clear and clean dishes that have been cooked for centuries and you can’t really go wrong if your end goal is to satisfy the stomach and in the process your soul.  I asked for recommendations on the menu and followed the advice and had one of the most delicious Coq au Vin.  The time before last I ate a feast fit for a person much larger than I, but I couldn’t help myself.  Fresh hard boiled eggs greet you from the bar, so snuggle up and grab a glass of rose and crack an egg to whet your appetite.  Then ask for a classic escargot dish or brandade, you won’t be disappointed.  When I order steak frites I am expecting not only a delicious piece of meat, but excellent execution on french fries.  These are perfect, crispy, thinly cut and salted with fine grain sel de mer.

And when I asked about a cheese plate not only did we have a discussion on regional French cheeses but the bartendar handed me the cheese bible so I could have an encyclopedic expalantion that satisfied ever curiosity.  Wonderful.

So next time family or business takes you to the South, take my advice and stop in at Fon Fon.

Oh Gelatohhh in Savannah, Georgia

Published by Christophe on August 22, 2008 in Restaurants. 0 Comments

Gelatto is one of my favorite things to eat, especially on a warm summer night. And Georgia has plenty of those hot, sticky, humid summer nights that require slow movement, slow talking and of course gelato as a primer. So what is gelato? And where did it come from? Gelato is milk and sugar combined with additional flavors like fruits or chocolate or nuts. Gelato typically has less than 55% air so that it has a dense and luxurious texture. Gelato made without milk, but in the same process, is sorbetto (sorbet). But I love the fat and therefore go for gelato 9 out 10 times when given the choice. Surprisingly the butterfat (milk fat) content for gelato is only 5-8% whereas traditional North American ice cream runs in the range of 10-18% (god bless Ben and Jerry’s). This higher percentage of butterfat is due in large part to the increased amount of cream used in N.A. ice cream.

So where did gelato come from? If you dig a little bit in the past history has two interesting anecdotes. The Chinese not only created paper and gun powder, but they created the first ice cream machine using rock salt in the agitation process to harden the shaved ice or granita that they were making over 2000 years ago. It is reported that Marco Polo brought not only pasta back to Italy but ice cream as well. Though there is good evidence that ice cream was being made and eaten by Roman emporers centuries before Marco Polo went on his global tour. Sorbetto was most likely introduced to southern Italy via the Arabs who also brought with them sugarcane. The Arabs had a long history of using mountain ice combined with sugar and fruit to make Sharbat (sorbet).

And today we have the Italians to thank for the beautiful advances in this dulce that we now can enjoy nearly everywhere. But not all gelatos are made equal. As with all great food you have to start with excellent base products in order for the finished product to be truly amazing. At Oh Gelatohhh they only use real fruit and traditional Italian techniques in making their gelato. And they hold true to standard Italian classics like Ricotta and Fig, Straciatella, Gianduja and Dulce de Leche.

I sat outside on a bench at City Market Ellis Square in downtown Savannah and enjoyed my delicious serving of Ricotta and Fig gelato. It dripped slowly down my hands as I tried to savor the experience for as long as possible. Tropical storm Fay was still brewing to the south and had already thrown thunder heads up to Georgia as a precursor to the coming rains and the sky was pastel pink, purple and blue on the tips of these giants thunder clouds that stretched across the horizon. Thankfully the clouds were accompanied by a cool breeze and I sat listening to music at Ellis Square and enjoyed a fantastic gelato.

The moral of my tale: search out the best gelato that you can. Sit outside on a hot summer nightand. Let it run down your fingers like you were a little child. Return to a simpler time in life (for at least five minutes) and enjoy the gift of milk, sugar and fruit. Oh ya, and if you are in Savannah stop in at Oh Gelatohhh.

L20

Published by jigsaw on August 12, 2008 in Restaurants. 0 Comments

I recently stopped in at Laurent Gras’ new phenom restaurant L20. L-2-0 - As in Laurent and Water, seafood and sunshine, service and ambiance, savory and sweet, etc. What an amazing amount of detail in the food. A few days before we ate at L2O I had to make a small hand delivery of some very old and amazing madeiras. I stood at the back door of the kitchen. I was waiting for Mr Marello to arrive to receive the handsome parcel and I was able to watch the kitchen for a stretch. It was 3:30 in the afternoon and the normal hussle of a kitchen preparing themselves for dinner service is what you’d expect. This was a scene out of the deep entrails of the NY City’s three star Michelin kitchens a la Ducasse. Tight, humming, tense, no conversation, extremely serious countenances on each man and woman, and a fleet of people. This is why gastronomes go to restaurants like Per Se, La Bernadin, Alinea and Charlie Trotters. To experience what a squadron of intense cooks can and will prepare for you to delight, amaze and impress. If you fancy yourself an at home cook who raises the bar, ask to get a visit of a prominent kitchen, to be a fly on the wall, just to get a feel for the intensity and focus of a professional team.

I stood at the back door way and watched as a dozen people scurried about from task to task. There was zero wasted effort, no time for joviality, everyone was there to execute a particular task and prepare for a long evening of service. One of the line cooks was meticulously cleaning the back room where I stood, and essentially apologized for asking me to move the hell out of his way, because he didn’t have time to slow down and I was terribly in the way.

That’s a kitchen!

Suffice it to say that the seafood we had was some of the most flavorful and delightfully presented plates that I’ve seen in years. Of course L20 is expensive, so come prepared to be wowed, drop a brick of dough, and sit for the long haul to experience everything that Gras has in store for you. Oh ya, try the vintage Madeira…1908 Boal will rock your world, or 1875 Malvasia will spin your head (19th Century Wine!!!).

To Bartend or To Not

Published by Christophe on August 5, 2008 in Restaurants and Wine Industry News. 0 Comments

I travel quite a bit for this wild and great wine company and I am very fortunate to meet all types of people from every corner of the USA. Being in the beverage business sometimes requires a bit of drinking and it still boggles my mind that outstanding bartenders are rare in “any town” USA. Bartenders should be the pinnacle of the service profession because their job is the most demanding outside of the pro’s in the kitchen. I thought it would be good to list the ingredients that make an excellent bartender (I’m ranting because of a lame ass bartender that I had last night - location to remain anonymous).

A superlative bartender should hold the golden bar of service at the highest level and in order to achieve this they must be highly organized. Have an excellent memory not only for guests proclivities but also a catalogue of drinks and historical context of cocktails. They must have excellent wine acumen if the bar serves a complex and deep wine list. Attention to detail and activity in their surroundings is critical. Knowing when the guests need attention, another drink, food or simply to be left alone is not hard to discern, but if the bartender does not take the job seriously then he/she won’t make the effort to pay attention to the small details. The bartender is not only a professional, but they are masters of multi tasking. Often the same bartender that makes your delicious libations at the bar is servicing the entire restaurant as servers come every few minutes during a busy evening to snatch away fresh cocktails that sail out to the main dining room.

So why is it that the really good bartenders are in the minority of the population? I kick myself for not knowing what a good sales gig I once had working the front of the house in restaurants years ago. I mean, who in the sales industry make 15-20% commission without ever having to cold call, canvass and find their customers. The customers come to you each night and all they want is knowledgeable and competent service. It is a shame that in America the service in the front of restaurants is looked down upon as a mediocre job or a job that is only in passing. I say to be of service to others, in whatever fashion you choose, is one of the most noble endeavors that we can make.

So go to your local watering hole, where you know the bartender is amazing, and tip him/her extra tonight and thank them for being a professional.

Ole Spanish Imports

Published by Christophe on July 22, 2008 in Wine Industry News. 0 Comments

Ole Imports, an amazing, young Spanish importer of high caliber wines held their annual tasting in Chicago last week. Not only are the wines impressive, they cover a breadth of style, price point, regionality that is the press’ adoration. The winemakers that Patrick Mata and Alberto Orte have assembled share a vision and youthfulness in their approach. Make the best wines that come from myriad regions in Spain, make them authentic, delicious, priced appropriately for their quality level and put together that oh so nebulous marketing element, the package.

I was fortunate enough to meet with the winemakers and attend a seminar that Patrick hosted the day before the event was opened to the Chicago market. Patrick explains his vision in clear and succinct terms that I think other wineries, winemakers, suppliers and importers could do well to adhere to. At every turn it was repeated that the goal was to make superlative wines that were regionally correct, price to quality balanced (actually, over exceeding), marketed with vigor and verve.

Some of the highlights were the dynamic duo Tom and David from Exopto. Explosion of flavors at each price category and hilarity of conversation. If you take your wine too seriously it looses its pizzazz that only comes out with sharing and conversation. Working all day makes Jack a dull boy.

Oro de Castilla Verdejo was pure heaven. Aromatically precise and broad flavors that are as refreshing as crystal clean morning dew slowly warmed by the early sun . The whole wine makes you want to soak your head in its smells and textures. The gravel and sandy soils in this Continental climate are perfect for stainless steel verdejo. Pablo del Villar, the winemaker, has fashioned a unique system of batonage that adds enormous texture and lift to his wines. Pablo has fashioned a single thin blade that rotates at the bottom of his stainless steel tanks that stirs the lees gently back into the wine offering maximum texture in the final product.

Bodegas Vinos Pinol and proprietor JuanJo was one of the most personable and captivating winemakers that I encountered. His personality was only bolstered by the depth and seriousness of his wines: Ludovicus Red, Portal, Sacra Natura, L’avi Arrufi, Mather Teresina, Mistela Blanca and Mistela Tinta. The Terra Alta, just next to Priorat has higher elevation and coincidentally a warmer climate. And JuanJo makes two incredible dessert wines of white garnacha and red fortified, always served chilled and freakily fantastic. Wow!

Federal Wine Shop - Boston

Published by Christophe on July 8, 2008 in Bottle Shops. 0 Comments

The Federal Wine and Spirits bottle shop in Boston has to be one of the most interesting retailers that I’ve come across in years. Federal Wine and Spirits is located in historic downtown Boston, next to the Old State Building. The Old State Building is the oldest public building in Boston built in 1713. This fantastic red brick edifice was the seat of the first elected legislature in the New World! The likes of John Hancock, Thomas Craft, John Adams and others were at the epicenter of this political hub. And the Declaration of Independence was read from the balcony on July 18th, 1776…and is read from the same balcony each Fourth of July.

This is where you’ll find Federal Wine and Spirits, headed by a garrulous and enchanting man Leonard (Len) Rothenberg. As you enter the shop you might wonder what is really going on here. The space is small and tightly conformed to the corner shape of the building. A thoughtful collection of wines, spirits, ports and madeiras wrap around the walls in front of an old cash counter. But the real gem lies below. Walk down the slim and winding staircase and you’ll see what I mean. A bevy of boxes, old world and new world wines alike. This is where the weekly tastings are held and gems are revealed. The old adage, trust your retailer, could never be more a propos. The wine world has become slightly cynical and full of hype so today is truly the day when you should be able to rely on your expert bottle shop owner to decipher the morass of wine scores and press to bring you the best selection available in the market place today.

Check out their website and offerings. The writing is refreshingly clear, honest and dedicated to high quality regardless of price point.

http://www.federalwine.com/

KO Prime in Boston

Published by Christophe on July 7, 2008 in Restaurants. 0 Comments

It’s been 10 years since I’ve walked through the gardens in Boston. And I must admit that I forgot how beautiful the city is in the summertime. The verdant, ripe and rich landscape is adoringly accented by the twisting and curving streets of Boston and the aroma of fresh blossoms and honeysuckle seem to fill every park and garden. I was duly impressed with the change in the restaurants as well. It seems that Bean Town is growing up and has begun to offer extremely good food and wine at regular and more affordable prices. Every major city in America has their own version of Newbury Street where the typical suspects and styles of ABC town can be found mixed in amongst the interesting and boutique. Walk just a bit off towards downtown and you’ll find the latest incarnation of chef Kerrin Oringer, James Beard best NE award winner, KO Prime. As the name sounds this is a steak house. I am such a fan of the modern steak house, out with the old and in with the clean and new. It’s like spring cleaning across the steak halls of America wiping away the heavy wood paneled, dark and smoky restaurants, and in with the crisp, light and balanced steak houses of the 21st century. The menu is balanced between heavy and light, meat and sea. What a delight to have sashimi, so light and refreshing and then to finish with hangar steak and bone marrow.

Service is the least talked about aspect to dining, and in my opinion, one of the most important elements to creating an excellent dinner. When I go out to eat I am not only looking for excellent food, excitement in the ingredients, caringly prepared and executed but also attentive service. Americans have become all to immune to the young PDQ waiters who are simply there to get a pay check and who don’t really care about doing their job well. I still tip well even when service is bad (old habit of having spent time in the trenches and feeling obliged) much to my own chagrin. So I am asking where is the pride in simply doing a job well? If you don’t know your product or the basics of how and when to get food and beverages to a table then what good are you to the restaurant and the chef that has labored over her food.

This being said I am so happy to say that all of the restaurants I visited in Boston all had stupendous service. And KO Prime was dynamite from top to bottom. I had an especially interesting conversation about organic beverage options that they are trying to use as much as possible at the restaurant. Even down to organically sourced spirits. When you are in Boston stop in for dinner or at least a quiet drink at the bar.