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To Bartend or To Not

Published by Christophe on August 5, 2008 in Restaurants and Wine Industry News. 0 Comments

I travel quite a bit for this wild and great wine company and I am very fortunate to meet all types of people from every corner of the USA. Being in the beverage business sometimes requires a bit of drinking and it still boggles my mind that outstanding bartenders are rare in “any town” USA. Bartenders should be the pinnacle of the service profession because their job is the most demanding outside of the pro’s in the kitchen. I thought it would be good to list the ingredients that make an excellent bartender (I’m ranting because of a lame ass bartender that I had last night - location to remain anonymous).

A superlative bartender should hold the golden bar of service at the highest level and in order to achieve this they must be highly organized. Have an excellent memory not only for guests proclivities but also a catalogue of drinks and historical context of cocktails. They must have excellent wine acumen if the bar serves a complex and deep wine list. Attention to detail and activity in their surroundings is critical. Knowing when the guests need attention, another drink, food or simply to be left alone is not hard to discern, but if the bartender does not take the job seriously then he/she won’t make the effort to pay attention to the small details. The bartender is not only a professional, but they are masters of multi tasking. Often the same bartender that makes your delicious libations at the bar is servicing the entire restaurant as servers come every few minutes during a busy evening to snatch away fresh cocktails that sail out to the main dining room.

So why is it that the really good bartenders are in the minority of the population? I kick myself for not knowing what a good sales gig I once had working the front of the house in restaurants years ago. I mean, who in the sales industry make 15-20% commission without ever having to cold call, canvass and find their customers. The customers come to you each night and all they want is knowledgeable and competent service. It is a shame that in America the service in the front of restaurants is looked down upon as a mediocre job or a job that is only in passing. I say to be of service to others, in whatever fashion you choose, is one of the most noble endeavors that we can make.

So go to your local watering hole, where you know the bartender is amazing, and tip him/her extra tonight and thank them for being a professional.

Ole Spanish Imports

Published by Christophe on July 22, 2008 in Wine Industry News. 0 Comments

Ole Imports, an amazing, young Spanish importer of high caliber wines held their annual tasting in Chicago last week. Not only are the wines impressive, they cover a breadth of style, price point, regionality that is the press’ adoration. The winemakers that Patrick Mata and Alberto Orte have assembled share a vision and youthfulness in their approach. Make the best wines that come from myriad regions in Spain, make them authentic, delicious, priced appropriately for their quality level and put together that oh so nebulous marketing element, the package.

I was fortunate enough to meet with the winemakers and attend a seminar that Patrick hosted the day before the event was opened to the Chicago market. Patrick explains his vision in clear and succinct terms that I think other wineries, winemakers, suppliers and importers could do well to adhere to. At every turn it was repeated that the goal was to make superlative wines that were regionally correct, price to quality balanced (actually, over exceeding), marketed with vigor and verve.

Some of the highlights were the dynamic duo Tom and David from Exopto. Explosion of flavors at each price category and hilarity of conversation. If you take your wine too seriously it looses its pizzazz that only comes out with sharing and conversation. Working all day makes Jack a dull boy.

Oro de Castilla Verdejo was pure heaven. Aromatically precise and broad flavors that are as refreshing as crystal clean morning dew slowly warmed by the early sun . The whole wine makes you want to soak your head in its smells and textures. The gravel and sandy soils in this Continental climate are perfect for stainless steel verdejo. Pablo del Villar, the winemaker, has fashioned a unique system of batonage that adds enormous texture and lift to his wines. Pablo has fashioned a single thin blade that rotates at the bottom of his stainless steel tanks that stirs the lees gently back into the wine offering maximum texture in the final product.

Bodegas Vinos Pinol and proprietor JuanJo was one of the most personable and captivating winemakers that I encountered. His personality was only bolstered by the depth and seriousness of his wines: Ludovicus Red, Portal, Sacra Natura, L’avi Arrufi, Mather Teresina, Mistela Blanca and Mistela Tinta. The Terra Alta, just next to Priorat has higher elevation and coincidentally a warmer climate. And JuanJo makes two incredible dessert wines of white garnacha and red fortified, always served chilled and freakily fantastic. Wow!