I recently stopped in at Laurent Gras’ new phenom restaurant L20. L-2-0 - As in Laurent and Water, seafood and sunshine, service and ambiance, savory and sweet, etc. What an amazing amount of detail in the food. A few days before we ate at L2O I had to make a small hand delivery of some very old and amazing madeiras. I stood at the back door of the kitchen. I was waiting for Mr Marello to arrive to receive the handsome parcel and I was able to watch the kitchen for a stretch. It was 3:30 in the afternoon and the normal hussle of a kitchen preparing themselves for dinner service is what you’d expect. This was a scene out of the deep entrails of the NY City’s three star Michelin kitchens a la Ducasse. Tight, humming, tense, no conversation, extremely serious countenances on each man and woman, and a fleet of people. This is why gastronomes go to restaurants like Per Se, La Bernadin, Alinea and Charlie Trotters. To experience what a squadron of intense cooks can and will prepare for you to delight, amaze and impress. If you fancy yourself an at home cook who raises the bar, ask to get a visit of a prominent kitchen, to be a fly on the wall, just to get a feel for the intensity and focus of a professional team.
I stood at the back door way and watched as a dozen people scurried about from task to task. There was zero wasted effort, no time for joviality, everyone was there to execute a particular task and prepare for a long evening of service. One of the line cooks was meticulously cleaning the back room where I stood, and essentially apologized for asking me to move the hell out of his way, because he didn’t have time to slow down and I was terribly in the way.
That’s a kitchen!
Suffice it to say that the seafood we had was some of the most flavorful and delightfully presented plates that I’ve seen in years. Of course L20 is expensive, so come prepared to be wowed, drop a brick of dough, and sit for the long haul to experience everything that Gras has in store for you. Oh ya, try the vintage Madeira…1908 Boal will rock your world, or 1875 Malvasia will spin your head (19th Century Wine!!!).
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